Thursday, 7 May 2009

VOLVO 340 DRIFT CAR FOR £1200


This drift car was built on a ‘D’ plate 2dr Volvo 340 1.7ltr. It was build for under £1200 which has got to be cheap fun. The 1.7ltr engine was remove and replaced with a 2.0ltr 16v Williams Clio engine, which develops about 150 BHP. It bolts straight in only requiring the old sump and a modified exhaust down pipe. It required the heater box to be removed, this allows the original manifold to be kept, if fitted with a K&N Filter; it is still tight but has helped to keep the costs down, you could modify the inlet manifold and mount the throttle body on the other end but this would put the costs up and this car was build for cheap fun.  The ECU and engine wiring loom are also from the Clio Williams and are mounted inside the car, the loom going through a Perspex panel in the bulkhead. 

The Suspension has been lowered and stiffened, the front has had the coil springs shortened, the front struts have been drained and their oil and replaced with EP80. The rear suspension has lowering blocks and Land Rover shock absorbers fitted. The diff has being welded up and a rear strut brace has been made from a gas pipe. Black painted deep dish 13inch minilites wheels and windscreen surround complete the look.   

The interior has being striped of the rear seats, it has had a rev counter dash fitted and a row of toggle switches with red Flip-Up Covers control the fuel pump etc. A small steering wheel adds to the look, plus improving the steering response.

 You could have spent 3 to 4 times more on this car but would it be any more fun to drive?

Tuesday, 28 April 2009

HOW TO TEST ALTERNATOR CHARGING SYSTEM


Battery warning light on or glowing when driving

No battery warning light on with ignition on, engine not running

Battery warning light on with ignition turned off

Screeching when accelerating, normally means alternator belt is slipping

Jump starts ok but cuts out shortly after

Head lights dimming when driving

Radio goes off when driving

ABS, Air bag etc. warning lights on together when driving (they come on with low voltage under 12 volts)

TESTING THE ALTERNATOR

 1. Is the battery light working? If no you need to check the wiring to the alternator, the light is normally controlled by the alternator grounding the warning light to earth (-) as a guide if you disconnect the wire you should see battery voltage at the wire with ignition on. Note: - some cars (mainly older Vauxhalls) have rubber mounted alternators, these have an earth lead from the alternator to the engine, if this breaks the light won’t work and the alternator won’t charge.

 2. Check the drive belt (fan belt) is tight and in good condition. Note: - to double check the belt isn’t slipping, rev engine to 3,000rpm with the lights on, stop engine and carefully, check to see if the alternator pulley is very hot, it should be the same temperature as the rest of the alternator, if very hot the belt is slipping.

 3. For the next test we need a voltmeter, connect this across the battery, start engine, turn on some load (headlights, heated rear screen etc), with engine at about 3,000rpm you should see 13.5-14.5 volts.

 

4. If the voltage is less we need to volt drop the wiring under load. Connect your voltmeter between the battery positive (+) and the positive out put on the alternator, with engine at 3.000rpm and load on (headlights, heated rear screen etc), you don’t want to see any more than 0.5volts on your meter, any more than this means you have a bad connection or wire and the alternator is trying to charge through your meter (don’t worry it won’t damage your meter). Check connections they might be hot if bad and for broken wires. You should all so volt drop the earth lead on the alternator if it is rubber mounted, check from battery negative (-) to alternator body again you don’t want to see more than 0.5volts on your meter.

5. If it passes all the above tests but does not reach 13.5-14.5volts, we now know it is time to get your credit card out and go and buy a new alternator.

6. If the voltage goes very high (18v) and the battery smells of rotten eggs, the regulator is faulty, this is normally inside the alternator and would require replacement of alternator.

Note: - Ford is now fitting ‘Smart Charge’, this allows the ECU to regulate the alternator and sometimes it may charge over 14.5volts.For testing if you disconnect the multi-plug the alternator will regulate it self.